Board bag chart
|Board model||Length - cm||Width - cm||Day bag|
|Stand-up paddle board 7' 2" x 29"||235||73||Size L
|Stand-up paddle board 9' 0" x 30"||276||76||Size L
|Stand-up paddle board 9' 8" x 29"||293.5||72.3||Size L
|Stand-up paddle board 9' 8" x 30"||294.5||77.4||Size L
|Stand-up paddle board 11' 2" x 30"||345.5||77||Size L
|Stand-up paddle board 12' 0" x 32"||369.5||81||Size L
|Stand-up paddle board 12' 2"||370||67||Size L
|Stand-up paddle board 12' 6"||380||77||Size L
We guarantee that our products are free of any defects or damage caused by workmanship or materials, for the duration of 12 months after purchase date. This warranty commitment does not cover any other claim conditions such as;
1) Damage or defects caused by impact with any material or object.
2) Damage or defects caused by, collisions, abuse, misuse or accidental damage.
3) Damage or defects caused by transport, loading, unloading, dropping, out of water handling or similar.
4) Damage or defects caused by exposure to temperatures over 70 and under 0 degrees Celsius.
5) Damage or defects caused by nature, such as earthquake, fires etc.
6) Damage or defects caused by alterations or modifications.
7) Damage or defects caused by repairs.
8) Damage or defects caused by usage of the board after a claim is reported.
9) Damage or defects caused by flat landings.
10) Damage or defects caused by the use of a larger fin than specified.
11) Damage or defects caused by storage of the board in closed, damp conditions (for example a wet boardbag)
12) Damage or defects caused by storage or transport of the board with a closed air-valve.
If you believe your board have defects related to manufacturing faults, please fill in the original Limited Warranty Form, and return it to your dealer without delay. Your board must be returned to the shop where it was purchased for immediate inspection. Make sure all the details and questions in the Warranty Form are filled in complete and correctly to avoid delays. If you are in doubt, and need our urgent advise or comments, please fill in the Express Warranty Form below.
Installing the Clipperbox fin
1. Insert the side plates either side of the Clipperbox fin.
2. Insert the assembled fin into the board from the deck until the side plates are fully reach the mating side in the box.
3. Place the deck cover and secure with the 6 countersunk screws.
4. Screw down the handle until is fully locked, with the supplied spacer if necessary.
WARNING : Care should be taken to align the handle correctly, otherwise the thread may be permanently damaged.
Installing the fin
(Tuttle and Deep Tuttle box systems)
1. Insert the fin from the bottom side until the fin's base is approximately 1-2mm above the board's bottom surface.
2. Carefully insert the bolts through the metal washer then the rubber washer, and finally through the board's deck and into the fin's head. Screw down the bolts firmly until the fin's base sits flush with the board's bottom surface.
Installing the air vent
1. Insert the air vent bolt and O-Ring seal into the air vent hole, located on the deck besides the mast track.
2. Carefully tighten the air valve ensuring that the bolt is correctly aligned. Misalignment may damage the thread and seal.
WARNING : Always ensure that the vent is closed prior to any contact with water, and opened when either stored in extreme temperatures or transported through large changes in altitude.
Installing the footstraps
1. Insert the screws through the washers with its teeth facing down and through the centre holes located on either end of a footstrap. The pull-tabs will help you clear these holes for access.
2. Screw down each footstrap onto the desired footstrap position on the board. Tightening the footstraps as much as possible will provide rigidity and comfort. Insufficient tightening will allow the strap to twist and distort excessively.
WARNING : Tuning the footstrap fit will greatly enhance both comfort and performance. Always use corresponding holes for both ends of the straps for the recommended strap aparture (15.5cm). The aparture can be increased or decreased simply by opting for an adjacent hole on one end.
The size of the strap can be adjusted with the velcro adjustment system (Quickstraps and Wavestraps) or by changing to different strap hole options Racestrap).
Installing the fin (US box systems)
1. Insert the brass plate into the fin box slot and slide it completely forwards.
2. Insert the fin into the fin box slot and slide backwards to the desired position. By default, the recommended position is either marked on the board or it is centred in the box. Adjusting the fin position forwards or backwards will depend on personal preference and tuning.
3. Rotate the fin until the fin sits almost flush with the board's bottom surface Align the brass plate hole to the one in the fin base head, insert the fin bolt through the holes and tighten securely until the fin base is flush with the board's bottom surface.
Installing the mast base
1. Insert the brass plate inside the mast track slot and slide to the desired position. By default, the centre of the mast track will give the best all-round performance. The position can be tuned forwards or backwards dependingon your personal preference, sail size and wind strength.
2. Screw in the mast base (not supplied with your board) to the brass plate and tighten securely.
WARNING : If the mast base is not sufficiently tightened, the mast base may slide during use.
Maintenance guideDear Starboard owner,
We are pleased to offer our assistance related to equipment damage, manufacturing faults or other questions you may have concerning protection and maintenance of your board. The purpose of this service is to ensure correct procedures and to save valuable time.
Your board is produced according to our latest sandwich technology. Please follow our simple precautions to preserve it correctly.
All sandwich boards contends a large percentage of air, (the boards foam core consists of 98% air bubbles) confined within the sealed and water tight skin of the board. The volume of the "trapped" air increases considerably when exposed to higher temperatures, and may cause severe de- laminations or leaks. Consequently it is essential to allow the pressure (access air) to escape by opening the air vent, one or two turns is sufficient, when there is a risk of over pressure. Do always open the air vent when you transport your board on a car, store it in a board bag in direct sunlight, or when flying. Make it as a rule to open the vent systematically when not sailing, as well as checking that it is securely closed before you go back in the water.
The foot straps are fastened with 22 mm screws. Avoid using screws that are not standard. Screws that are too long will penetrate the inserts and cause water leaks. Do not use too much force when mounting your straps, but re-tighten the screws after the first few hours of sailing. Some of our models have shorter screws to accommodate central rear inserts.
Make sure to keep your fin (s) in good condition. We recommend you to store your fins in fitted bags. Even a small damage or scratch may generate spin outs and dramatically reduce its performance. Attach the fin firmly before you go sailing.
Make sure to rinse off your board with fresh water frequently, and preferably after each time it has been exposed to sand and/or salt water. Avoid direct sunlight as much as possible. The sun, salt water and sand are the most common elements of our beaches, but also the three worst enemies of your board and equipment. Sandwich boards offer incomparable performance due to their light weight and exceptional rigidity. Despite the use of impact resistant materials such as carbon and our wood laminates, they are still sensitive to puncture impacts. Avoid carrying your board with the harness hook pushing the hull, and more importantly, avoid impact between the rig and the board. Safeguard your board by using mast and boom protectors. Store your board in a dry place without big temperature variations, preferably in a board bag.
Color guide2008 Pantone Color Guide (White boards not listed)
|Stan-up paddle board 12' 2" (Wood)||Red 186 CVC|
|Stan-up paddle board 12' 2" (Sport tech / Tufskin)||White|
|Stan-up paddle board 12' 6" (Wood)||Red 186 CVC|
|Stan-up paddle board 12' 6" (Sport tech / Tufskin)||White|
|Stan-up paddle board 9' 8"x19"|
|Stan-up paddle board 11' 2"x30" (Sport tech)||Red 485 CVC|
|Stan-up paddle board 11' 2"x30" (Tufskin)||White and Blue 300 CVC|
|Stan-up paddle board 12'0"x32" (Sport tech)||Red 485 CVC|
|Stan-up paddle board 12'0"x32" (Tufskin)||White and Blue 300 CVC
Repair guideSmall dings Technora, DRAM and WOOD
For small dings in your board, like ones that do not go deep into your board and are smaller than your little finger, you can repair by filling it in with good quality epoxy filler (2 part mix).
Incorrect or sloppy repairs may permanently damage your board, or reduce it's value considerably. A claim process can be painful and time consuming, - generating frustration and delays if you do not follow the proper procedures. Lack of maintenance might shorten the life time of your board dramatically. All Starboards are manufactured to the highest of standards with strict quality control and low tolerance margins. Our Wood boards are wrapped with carefully selected Australian pine for extra stiffness and impact resistance. They are light weight performance boards. Please treat them as such.
Make sure the exposed area is super clean with no grease or dirt by sanding rigorously the inside of the ding. The rough surface will also give good adhesion between board and filler.
Apply the filler -and once it's fully cured, you can sand down to level it with the rest of the board. To achieve a good finish - Start sanding with a lower grade paper (100 grit) then gradually increase (180, 360). The last ones should be 600 then 1000 grit paper, both with water.
DO NOT use polyester based filler, even those with mixed fibreglass in them (these are normally used for car body), because chemically they are not compatible with the epoxy used in the board. You can recognise polyester based fillers by the fact that they normally come with a small tube of hardener per tub of filler, as opposed to epoxy fillers which are generally half resin and half hardener.
Once sanded, visit your nearest car paint shop and ask them to match the colour of your board. The best paint to use is again 2-part epoxy paint, but if the ding is really small, acrylic paint can do the trick. The latter is not so scratch resistant though?
If the ding is on the deck, you may want to apply some non-slip again. The best way is to spray clear PU mixed with non-slip beads. As these are hard to find, and easier alternative is to apply a thin coat of epoxy and lightly sprinkle some fine salt on the epoxy before it starts to harden.
Repair of damaged footstrap screw thread or vent screw threads.
Normally, with correct use, the threaded inserts in your Starboard will provide excellent service throughout the life of your board. Occasionally, and usually for a secondary reason (like failure to maintain strap screws tension..), a threaded insert may become stripped, requiring a practical solution to restore the original function of the thread.
We've been using a LocTite/Permatex product that really does permanently restore the threads in stripped out plastic inserts, such as the footstrap insert threads, or deck vent screws.
The product is called Permatex Stripped Thread Repair Kit.
Here's a link: www.permatex.com/products/automotive/thread_compounds/thread_repair.htm
Here's the same product from Loctite Corp. It's called Loctite Form-A-Thread Kit 81668
It's a 2 part epoxy based "system" with a super mold release agent as part of the kit.
Get a new footstrap screw, and coat it with the blue mold release agent (save it as you can use it again).
Clean out the stripped insert with acetone (don't get it anywhere on the board, just down the hole in the insert).
Take a tooth pick and work a small quantity of the mixed 2 part epoxy down into the stripped hole.
Screw the blue mold release coated new footstrap screw down into the hole without the footstrap attached.
Let the 2 part compound cure. Cures pretty quickly, but usually let it cure overnight for best results unless the
board needs to be raced right away.
Unscrew the blue mold release coated screw.
Put your footstrap back on normally.
This product repairs threads in steel parts to SAE Grade 5 or Metric Grade 8.8 strength.
Should hold your footstrap or a stripped vent plug forever.
(Thanks to Roger Jackson for the R+D on this solution)
Larger dings Technora, DRAM and WOOD
For larger dings, it will be necessary to use epoxy resin instead of filler, as well as fibreglass reinforcements.
Clean out the area by roughly sanding the surface to be repaired, as above. Cut out enough fibreglass to cover the entire area. The best fibreglass to use is normally weaved ones at 100g grade. You can also go up to 200g, but bear in mind that 2x100g is more effective than 1x200g. Chopped strand mat can also do the trick.
There should be enough fibreglass to fill up the ding already, even without resin. This will be a good indication that the repair will be strong.
However, for deep dings such as a crack in the nose after those big catapults, after you've made sure that the board is dry inside, you need to fill the inside with some polystyrene foam (EPS). Then sand away 2cm either side of the crack - about 1mm deep - and cut the fibreglass accordingly.
Mix the epoxy resin and apply it to the surface. Lay the first layer of glass and wet it out. Then lay the next layer, continue until the repair is covered.
Once cured, sand away and finish as described in the small dings section.
In wood boards, if the wood has been exposed to water or starts cracking, you can sand away the epoxy layer that seals the wood in that area, until you reach the wood layer itself. Sand lightly on this until the wood cracks are smooth again, and let dry.
Apply some epoxy resin and place a layer of good quality nylon cloth over the entire area + at least 3cm, and wet this out with resin too. Make sure you do not wet the entire nylon, but leave a dry 'frame' around the repaired area. This area is to allow you to peel off the nylon once the resin has cured.
You will now have a solid layer of epoxy resin sealing the wood, with a texture due to the nylon. Sand this texture away and blend the new layer of epoxy with the rest of the board by sanding. As for all repairs, start with 100 grit paper going finer up to 600 and 1000 with water.